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Dubrovnik - where the past is always present

Date Posted: Thursday, November 16, 2006
Author: Christen Pears

In December 1991, at the height of the Balkan conflict, Serbian and Montenegrin forces set up their artillery in the hills above Dubrovnik and began shelling the historic city. The world watched in disbelief as buildings and monuments were smashed during a brutal, eight-month siege. Two thirds of the city were damaged but the walls that were built to repel medieval armies stood up remarkably well to modern artillery. 

Fifteen years later, the scars have faded but look closely and they are still visible - roof tiles a brighter shade of terracotta than the rest, new stones nestling in medieval walls. On the wall of one of the gates that lead into the city there is a map showing the damage caused during the siege. Barely a street escaped the bombardment but during the 1990s more than $25 million was poured into the Dubrovnik and UNESCO and other international organizations worked painstakingly to restore it to its former glory.

George Bernard Shaw famously dubbed the city the “Pearl of the Adriatic”. How right he was. Dubrovnik occupies a spectacular position on the Croatian coast. Its buildings represent the finest architecture of the last 700 years and it is rich in culture and heritage – a fascinating blend of Balkan and Mediterranean influences.

The best way get a feel for the city is to take the 2km walk around its walls. Built on a peninsula, Dubrovnik juts out into the Adriatic and is protected on all sides by enormous walls. Begun in the 13th century, they are 25 metres high and up to three metres thick, studded with gates, towers and forts. They provide the perfect vantage point across the city’s rooftops and it’s from here that I really noticed the patchwork of colours where tiles had been damaged during the siege.

The city looked like nowhere I’d ever seen. It has a breathtaking mix of gothic, renaissance and baroque architecture. I was amazed by how little modernity has encroached on the city. Strict planning regulations mean there are no modern buildings within the walls and even the shutters and window frames are painted a regulation dark green. With so much history Dubrovnik could easily have become a museum - static and staid – but it isn’t. It buzzes with energy.

Nowhere is this more obvious than on the Stradun, the city’s main street, which is lined with cafes and shops. This is where people come to see and be seen and the paving stones are worn to a glassy smoothness by the tramping of millions of feet. Like so many tourists, I sat down at one of the outdoor tables, nursing a cup of coffee and watched the world go by. Children played nearby, weaving in and out of the crowds on their bikes, showing that for all Dubrovnik is a tourist destination, it’s still a living city.

But it was the history that really fascinated me. Dubrovnik was founded in the first half of the seventh century by a group of refugees from the coastal town of Cavtat. Fleeing barbarian invaders, they settled in an easily-defended positionBy the 15th century, the Republic of Ragusa was a major trading city, tussling with Venice for control of the Adriatic. It grew rich on its trade with the Ottoman Empire, India and Africa and although small and without an army, it maintained its independence by diplomacy and used its wealth to expand its cultural and political influence.

In 1667, Dubrovnik was stuck by an earthquake. Most of its Renaissance architecture was destroyed but a few buildings survived. The Sponza Palace, formerly the Ragusa Mint, and the Rector’s Palace, which was the seat of government are the finest examples, and are open to visitors.The city was reconstructed in the baroque style but its influence began to wane and in 1806 Napoleon ended the republic. It was ceded to Austria in 1815 and remained part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918.

Dubrovnik may be small but because it is so well preserved, there is a wealth of historic buildings to explore. The Franciscan monastery was rebuilt after the earthquake but retains its original cloister from the 15th century. It is also home to Europe’s oldest working pharmacy, which was opened in 1317. Just opposite is Onofrio’s Great Fountain, a huge circular construction built around the same time. At the other end of the Stradun stands the baroque church of St Blaise, Dubrovnik’s patron saint, the cathedral and the Dominican monastery.

The waters off Dubrovnik are dotted with islands and there are regular crossings to the nearby Elaphite archipelago, which consists of three unspolit islands - Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan. Even closer is Lokrum where Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked on his way back from the Crusades. I decided to venture even further afield and took a day trip to neighbouring Montenegro.

Like Croatia, Montenegro was once a popular tourist destination. The glamorous resort of Budva was a favourite with royals and Hollywood stars such as Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor but the war took its toll here too.The tiny country, roughly the same size as Northern Ireland, is only now getting back on its feet but progress is rapid. Montenegro is one of the world’s fastest-growing tourist destinations. Progress along the coast road is slow due to dozens of sets of roadworks needed to improve the infrastructure. Stark former Communist hotels are being refurbished to accommodate the influx of visitors but as you move away from the coast, the picture is different.

As the coach clung to the narrow roads, making its torturous way into the mountains I was impressed by both the spectacular scenery and the extreme poverty. “None of the young people want to stay here,” said an old woman at the shack-cum-café where we stopped for refreshments. “There is nothing here for them.”Just beyond the Croatian border is Boka Kotorska, Europe’s most southerly fjord and standing on the icy shores is the medieval city of Kotor, from which it takes its name. Hidden behind its solid walls are narrow, twisting alleyways and cobbled squares that reminded me of Dubrovnik.

After a long day travelling, it was back to my hotel for an early night. Most of Dubrovnik’s hotels are outside the walls, past the old harbour to the west or to on the Lapad peninsula to the east. I stayed at the Excelsior, a recently-refurbished five star hotel. It is a short walk away from the old city but as I stepped out onto my balcony and watched the sun setting over the orange roofs, it occurred to me that the best views are from the outside looking in.

Christen stayed at the Hotel Exelsior. For more information visit the website at www.hotel-excelsior.hr

 

   

 

 

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